Chemicals And Formulas
COMMONLY USED CHEMICALS
Metol (Elon)
Sodium Thiosulfate
Sodium Sulfite
Potassium Alum
Acetic Acid 28%
Pyrocatechin
Potassium Ferricyanide
Potassium Bromide
Benzotriazole
Sodium Hydroxide
2,4: Diamenaphenol Dihydrochloride (Amidol)
NEGATIVE FORMULAS
D-23 Developer
Metol - 2 level teaspoons
Sodium Sulfite - 4 tablespoons and 1 teaspoon
Water to make 1 pint
This is STOCK solution. Dilute 1:1 with water to make working solution. Normal developing time is 8 minutes at 68 degrees F. This is a good general purpose developer, but renders best results with Kodak film. Agitate for the first minute constantly and 5 seconds every minute thereafter.
Pyrocatechin Developer
Mix solution A:
Water (distilled or boiled) 100cc
Sodium Sulfite (desiccated) 1.25 grams
Pyrocatechin 8 grams
Mix solution Bx or B:
Solution Bx:
Sodium Hydroxide - 1 gram
COLD water to make 100cc
Solution B:
Sodium Hydroxide - 10 grams
COLD water to make 100cc
Mix 20 parts of solution A - 5 parts solution B
-or-
Mix 20 parts of solution A - 50 parts of solution Bx
Then mix 500 parts of water with either A:Bx or A:B solution. Normal development time is 12 to 15 minutes. Agitate as with D-23.
*IMPORTANT** WHEN MIXING SODIUM HYDROXIDE, ALWAYS USE COLD WATER, BECAUSE WITH WARM OR HOT WATER IT COULD BOIL OR EXPLODE!!!
You can also use Pyrocatechol, Pyrogallol, or Pyrogallic Acid, but I suggest using Pyrocatechol because it is more stable. Pyro is probably the best developer available today because it is a compensating developer and will retain detail in Zones X to XV.
Warning: Pyrocatechol, Pyrogallol, and Pyrogallic Acid are all very poisonous. Take care when handling these and do not inhale the small particulate.
Ansco 210 Stop Bath
32 oz. 1 Liter 4 Liters
Acetic Acid 28% 1 - 1/2 oz 45cc 180cc
Water to make 32 oz. 1 liter 4 liters
Plain Hypo Fixing Bath
Water (125 degrees F.) 25 oz. 750cc 3000cc
Sodium Thiosulfate 8 grams 250 grams 1000 grams
Water to make 32 oz. 1 liter 4 liters
Fixing Bath (Kodak F-6)
32 oz. 1 liter 4 liters
Water (125 degrees F.) 20 oz. 600cc 2400cc
Sodium Thiosulfate 8 oz. 240 grams 960 grams
Sodium Sulfite 1/2 oz. 15 grams 60 grams
Acetic Acid 28% 1 - 1/2 oz. 48cc 192cc
Kodalk 1/2 oz. 15 grams 60 grams
Potassium Alum 1/2 oz. 15 grams 60 grams
Cold water to make 32 oz. 1 liter 4 liters
Sodium Thiosulfate rapidly drops the temperature of water when mixed. Always mix in order given.
Formalin Supplementary Hardener (Kodak SH-1)
Water 16 oz. 500cc
Formaldehyde 37% 2 - 1/2 drams 10cc
Sodium Carbonate 73 grains 5 grams
Water to make 32 oz. 1 liter
After hardening for 3 minutes, negatives should be rinsed and placed in a fresh acid fixing bath for 5 minutes.
Metol Compensating Developer
Warm water 75cc 750cc
Metol 37 grains 2.5 grams
Sodium Sulfite 3/4oz. (37 gr.) 25 grams
Cold water to make 32oz. 1 liter
Developing time is about 25 to 30 minutes. Use agitation plan No. 4 (consult "The Negative" by Ansel Adams).
Water Bath Developer
Water 75cc 750cc
Sodium Sulfite 2 grams 20 grams
Amidol 1/2 gram 5 grams
Water to make 100cc 1 liter
To use:
Plan No. 1 Immerse negative in developer (constant agitation) for 40 seconds.
Then to water (no agitation) for 2 minutes.
Then in developer for 50 seconds.
Then in water for 2 minutes (no agitation).
Then in developer for 90 seconds.
Then in water for 2 minutes (no agitation).
Plan No. 2 A sequence of short immersions in developer (constant agitation) alternating
with 2 minute immersions in water for 2 minutes (no agitation).
30 seconds developer; wash; 15 seconds developer; wash; 15 seconds developer; wash;
15 seconds developer; wash; 15 seconds developer; wash.
Two Solution Developer
Metol 7.5 grams
Sodium Sulfite 100 grams
Water to make 1 liter
This is solution No. 1.
Solution No. 2 follows:
1% Kodalk solution (10 grams Kodalk to 1 liter water)
For placement of Zone VI on Zone VI:
Solution 1 Solution 2
Zone VI normal 7 min. 3 min.
Zone VII N-1 4 1/2 min. 3 min.
Zone VIII N-2 3 1/2 min. 3 min.
Zone IX N-3 2 1/2 min. 3 min.
Zone X N-4 1 3/4 min. 3 min.
Placement of Zone VIII brightness on Zone VIII.
Solution 1 Solution 2
Zone VIII normal 7 min. 3 min.
Zone IX N-1 4 3/4 min. 3 min.
Zone X N-2 4 min. 3 min.
Zone XI N-3 3 1/3 min. 3 min.
Zone XII N-4 2 3/4 min. 3 min.
Zone XIII N-5 2 min. 3 min.
Constant agitation in both solutions is important. If film shows a tendency to fog, prepare solution No. 2 with Potassium Bromide.
OTHER DEVELOPERS
Kodak HC-110
This developer comes in concentrate solution. For use from concentrate, working solution is made by diluting 1/4 oz. of HC-110 to 16 oz. water. Normal developing time is 10 minutes at 68 degrees F. Agitate for the first minute and 5 seconds every minute thereafter.
Kodak D-76
This developer comes in packages of dry chemicals. Follow manufacturer’s recommended mixture of solution. Recommended normal development time is 7 minutes at 68 degrees F. D-76 is not as fine grain developer as HC-110, but it replenishes well.
OTHER FIXERS
Kodak Kodafix Solution
This is available in 1 quart solution and is easy for preparation. To mix negative fixer, dilute with water 1:4. For use with paper, dilute 1:7 with water.
Kodak Rapid Fix
This is available in quantity and is more economical. It is a 2 part liquid concentrate of which one part is a hardener which is important for negatives. Manufacturer’s dilutions seem to be quite adequate for most applications. Fixing seems to be quicker than the other two Kodak fixers.
Kodak Fixer (powder)
Available in 1 quart and 1 gallon sizes, this fixer is used for all applications. When mixed, this product is a good working solution for negatives. For paper, dilute 1:2 with water.
PAPER FORMULAS
Amidol
Water 800cc
Sodium Sulfite (desiccated) 35 grams
Amidol 11 grams
Potassium Bromide 7.5 grams
Benzotriazole (2% Solution) 60cc
The addition of 5-10 grams of citric acid acts as a preservative.
Amidol is a slow acting developer which renders extremely rich black tones (especially on bromide papers). When mixing the solution, add the Amidol last and be prepared to print immediately. Amidol oxidizes quickly, so you will have only 30-45 minutes printing time in solution before degeneration. With the cost of Amidol it is important to maximize printing time unless you have a whole lot more money than me. Yes, it is expensive (last I bought was about $210.00 per pound) but it is the only thing I use to print fine art prints for exhibition or sale. It is that good! The only drawback Amidol has is that it will stain your fingernails dark brown to nearly black, depending on how much you use it. Rubber gloves will remedy this.
Also, Amidol is a vary fine powder and can be hazardous to your health if ingested , take care not to inhale the dust.
Kodak Dektol
A very good general purpose developer for paper. It comes in packages of dry chemicals that are available in 1 quart and 1 gallon mixtures. Mix with appropriate amount of water as stated by the manufacturer. This makes stock solution. For working solution, dilute stock 1:1 with water. When mixing the dry chemicals, use warm water. If used immediately, cool to 68 degrees F. If you wish a softer developer, you may dilute the stock solution 1:2 with water.
"Cold" Selenium Toner
If prints have been dried, soak in water for at least 5 minutes. Set up 3 trays for the process.
Sodium Thiosulfate 2 pounds
Water (hot) 1 gallon
Sodium Thiosulfate cools the water dramatically when mixed. Use hot tap water when mixing or it will not dissolve properly.
Fill tray No. 1 with this solution. (I find that using a tray one size larger than your print size is beneficial. If you are doing 8 x 10’s, use 11 x 14 trays. This makes it much easier to work without damaging your prints.)
Tray No. 2:
Mix 100cc of hypo eliminator (orbit bath) stock solution to 400cc water.
Add 50cc of Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner. (You may have to double or triple this according to the size of trays used.)
Tray No. 3:
Mix 100cc of hypo eliminator stock solution with 400cc water. (Again, you may need more according to the tray size used.)
Place wet prints in tray no. 1 for 3 minutes.
Move to tray no. 2 (usually about 2 minutes for most papers).
Move to tray no. 3 for 2 - 3 minutes.
Wash thoroughly.
IT IS IMPORTANT THAT ALL PRINTS BE EVENLY COVERED WITH SOLUTIONS AND CONSTANTLY AGITATED THROUGH EACH PROCESS.
**WARNING** ALWAYS USE RUBBER GLOVES WHEN WORKING WITH SELENIUM!!! SELENIUM CAN (OR SHOULD I SAY WILL) ABSORB THROUGH YOUR SKIN AND BUILD UP IN YOUR SYSTEM AND COULD BECOME QUITE POSSIBLY FATAL!!! YES, WE’RE TALKING REAL DEAD!
Note: If you leave your prints in the selenium solution too long, the tone will change from the desired cold tone to a warm tone.